Getting Started in Leatherworking, Part 3

There are many blogs and forum posts out there answering the very common question, "How do I get started in leatherworking?" While I certainly don't have all the answers, and there are people who are more experienced, I figured maybe it will help someone to hear the things I wish I'd known when I got started.

Step 3: To Kit or Not to Kit?

I read a blog post recently where a leatherworker said to avoid buying a kit to get started. He had some valid points: Kits often consist of cheap tools and some pre-punched pieces that really aren't what you want to make. Cheap tools either won't last, or they won't feel good to use. If you stick with leatherworking, you'll end up spending more money to replace the cheap tools with decent ones.

I started with a kit, myself, and my local Tandy also did a 4-weekend class starting the first Saturday of every month that taught you how to use the tools it came with. I won't deny that I have replaced or ceased using most of the tools it came with since then, and don't regret it. But I had a coworker who bought a similar kit a few years later and took the class...and she said it wasn't for her.

The plus side is she didn't waste a lot of money, and she at least learned the skills. If she felt like picking it back up again, she has a starting point. But there's something to be said that if you use good tools from the start, you're more likely to stick with it: I've heard similar stories from people who were learning to knit (almost gave up after suffering through scratchy acrylic yarn and cheap aluminum needles, but then tried actual wool and bamboo, and they finally began to enjoy it) or playing an instrument.

My advice is to try a kit if it matches what you want to do. There are tooling kits, where you generally learn Sheridan style (Western) tooling...but then you can take those skills to tool anything else you can dream of. Alternately, maybe you have no interest in tooling, and just want to learn how to make items. For that, maybe start with a stitching kit. Learn your stitches, how to punch straight lines (it can be harder than it looks), or even decorative lacing.

If you want to learn how to make items like bags and wallets, it doesn't hurt to buy a kit that has the pieces pre-cut and most of the other items like the hardware included. Sometimes you'll need additional tools like snap setters or needles, or dyes and glue. Those kits can help you learn the appropriate construction steps, without having to worry about if your pieces will line up. If you'd rather, use the pieces from that kit as pattern pieces to create your own products.

There's no shame in getting started with a kit, just try to pick out one that lines up with what you'd like to make in the future. Use it to practice, and remember...you don't HAVE to make the item EXACTLY as the instructions say. If your kit came with a wallet blank, and you have no interest in making a Western-style wallet...do your own design! You should feel empowered to be as creative as you'd like, and while it helps to follow the instructions to learn what you're doing, take a little license to make items you're happy to use.

That said...if you're sure you want to get into leatherworking and you want to get tools that really work for you, here are some items to get you started...many of which you might already have or can get fairly cheaply, and others are worth saving for a good quality tool:

• Cutting mat: Protect your worksurface with a large self-healing mat. If you get a 50% off coupon from Jo-Ann's, that's a good time to swoop in and get the largest one that will fit your space.

• Poundo board, poly cutting board, or Japanese cutting tile: You want something thicker than your cutting mat for doing work like punching holes; it needs to be soft enough to have some give so you don't destroy your tools, but strong enough that you're not punching holes completely through it.

• Granite or marble slab: This is essential if you get into tooling so you have a solid surface for your leather. It's not as necessary if you're just making bags, but it does come in handy. You can often go into places that do custom stone countertops and they may give you a piece (12"x12" minimum) for free.

• Leather Shears: Buy a pair, and ONLY use them for leather.

• Cutting knives: Some people prefer using a round knife, others do just fine with Xacto knives or snap-off box cutter blades. I do a lot of my initial cuts with a rotary cutter. JUST BE SURE THEY'RE SHARP.

• Skiving Knife: I've tried all kinds of skivers, and honestly with some practice I've found that Japanese skiving knifes give the best results. I have one with a straight blade, and one with an oblique blade that better matches my movements.

• Leather Strop and Jeweler's Rouge: I've found the green rouge works the best to keep my tools polished. And you WILL be polishing your blades a lot.

• A good mallet or maul: Poly or rawhide mallets will be the best for most of your needs. I used the poly mallet that came with my tooling kit for EVERYTHING until recently, and am so glad I bought a heavier mallet. (I'll continue to use the poly mallet for tooling so my wrist doesn't get tired quickly.) Just never use a metal hammer on your tools or you'll ruin them. People tend to love Barry King mallets and mauls, and they come in different weights: You would likely want a lighter weight mallet for tooling, but a heavier weight maul for punching holes.

• Steel square and rulers: You're going to make a lot of straight cuts, so have some good straight edges in different lengths and widths on hand. A steel square is essential in getting those angles right.

• Hole punches: You can get sets of drive punches (where you punch the holes with your maul), sets that have different size tips that attach to a handle, or a rotary leather punch that has different hole punch sizes on one handle that looks like a pair of pliers. All have their uses, and you WILL need to punch a variety of sizes of holes (for snaps, rivets, inner corners, etc.) so have at least one method on hand.

• For stitching: A decent awl is a must, and either an overstitch wheel (to mark where you'll punch) or a set of stitching chisels. The nicer the awl and chisels, the more expensive they'll be...but it will really make a difference in how easily you punch through your leather. You can also get a cheap scratch awl for marking your leather. This doesn't have to be a super expensive tool.

• Stitching pony: I started with a cheap one, but upgraded to a nicer one. I want to upgrade again in the near future. But you'll need something to clamp your work together while you stitch it.

• Stitching groover, Wing dividers/scratch compass: I recommend having both on hand. The stitching groover will create a gutter for your stitches so the thread won't stick up over the leather (really important for things like wallet pockets so your cards can slip past easily). Wing dividers can be used to mark your stitching lines as well. I tend to use them for stitches on the outside of bags where I don't necessarily want to carve a groove. You can also use wing dividers for marking seams or where to cut, etc. so it's a great tool to have on hand.

• Glue: Contact cement is your best bet to hold your edges together. Shoemakers have used Barge for ages. You can get cans of Dap Weldwood for cheaper at your local hardware store.

• Glue spreaders: I hate the brushes that come in the can lid when you need to just glue the edge. Glue spreaders make a messy job less of a pain. Alternately, small condiment bottles work really well for putting down a thin line of glue where you need it.

• Needles: Thanks to my cosplay and sewing background, I have a pretty large stash of needles of various lengths, thicknesses, and sharpness. I've since found John James needles (Glovers needles and Harness needles are my go-to) and probably will never go back to needles of questionable origin again...at least not for leatherwork.

• Thread!: Obviously you'll need thread to sew your items together. A lot of people love Ritza Tiger Thread for their work. Its a multiple-ply thread that's held as a flat braid rather than a twist, so it will lay flat against your work. It comes in a variety of standard colors and sizes. Personally, I'm a huge fan of Vinymo MBT. It's a polyester thread that is not waxed, but it has even MORE colors, and it's highly twisted so it's not easy to stick your needle through your thread as you work. It just feels really good on my hands, so I love it and can't talk enough about it!

• Sandpaper: For evening out edges, roughing up leather to glue pieces together, or even sharpening your bevelers...keep sandpaper in a variety of grits on hand. (I think I use 400-800 grit the most.)

• Edgers/Bevelers: These really make the edges of your work nice. I have several different sets of varying quality from Tandy, and recently upgraded to Palosanto bevelers in the sizes I use most. They are SO nice to work with!

• Edge slicker: Some people like the "raw edge" look...but for professional-looking results, you will need to burnish your edges. You don't need anything really expensive, as long as it has grooves of varying widths to burnish different thicknesses of leather. (You can also get burnishing attachments for a Dremel...sometimes they work better than manually burnishing your edges, and other times I feel like the results are better when you put some elbow grease into it.)

• Burnishing compound: When I first learned leatherworking, I was told, "If you're making a belt for someone and you don't care about them, you can burnish with water. If you like them, use beeswax. If you REALLY like them, use gum tragacanth." I've tried all of these, and honestly my favorite is Tokonole. You can use it to burnish edges, or even burnish the flesh side of your leather to make it smooth. I love this stuff.

Note: If you want to tool your leather, you will also need a swivel knife, and at least a few beveler stamps. You will also likely need some dyes if you're using plain vegetable tanned leather, and some kind of top coat/protectant. But regardless of whether you're tooling your leather, you will likely need most of the items I've listed above.

That will get you started in leatherworking. As far as what leather to get, it really depends on what you're doing. I work mostly in 3-4oz. leather, and I prefer to feel it before buying. (Which is why I mention going to Tandy when others who have been leatherworking far longer than I have recommend several online shops...they have good reputations, I am just picky about what I'm getting!) I've used vegetable tanned, chrome tanned, aniline dyed, leather of questionable origin, PU "vegan leather", and vinyl...and still used most of those tools since the techniques are the same.